To start, I want to wish a very happy 20th birthday to my favorite film director Chris Nolan. I hope you enjoy it buddy! Also, as a point of notice, I will be doing my blog post in two parts today to mix things up. This one will without a doubt be focused on surfing. The later one will likely be shorter and the content will come as my day goes on. So here goes nothing, let's get into it!
Surfing AUS, alright! Right? Well kind of. Surfing was without a doubt one of the most humbling experiences I have had in a long time. I knew I would struggle, but I failed to the max. Yes, I got up once, but it was with the help of the instructor only. Most of the time it was more like the symphonic sounds of the ocean turned into a cacophony of me tumbling aggressively into the salted water. When it was even worse I took some hits. The worst being when the fins of the board hit my head then the deck hit my face. Talk about horrible! Seeing everyone else doing well was cool though. Maybe I just need more practice and to be in better shape, but for now it is the ocean 1 Jayson 0. My body aches and I am saltier than smoked salmon, so good job ocean and all these wonderful folks for doing better than me. Much love to the instructors too for their patience, energy, and for teaching me the mental side of surfing!
Jayson Out
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